Day 33 - Miru-Bora to nr. Lake Vidraru, 215km
Tough day, as the distance shows.
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Morning just as stunning as last night. |
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Morning. Check out the clouds in the valley! |
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Descending off the ridge line through the meadows this morning. |
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Morning's descent. |
Morning was great. Ridge-line ride then descent off moors through forest to meadow below. Amazing views. Moderately tricky descent for final 3km to road (steep earth, rutted with run-off channels).
My confidence I'd outrun the gypsies was misplaced. After hiding in my sleeping bag long enough for the sun to warm up, I emerged to find an old BMW 3 Series a few hundred metres away. Unlike them, I took my litter with me. I was amazed they'd made it down the deeply rutted track - but then later saw an oil sump's load spilled along the trail where someone else hadn't made it. The line of black stuff suggested they didn't notice for a while...
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Start of the gorge north to Sibiu |
Besides the gypsies and the dogs, though, I've been surprised how friendly and keen on bikes people are. Kids holding out for a high five, fair enough, but parents and old ladies wave as you pass too.
After the briefest of road links, there was a 25km stony, muddy, roller coaster of a ride up a gorge and over almost all the way to Sibiu. Goggle-wettingly deep puddles!
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Sibiu. Former capital of Transylvania. |
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A silvery mineral in the rocks and sand make the whole route glisten in the sun. And my number plate too. |
Lunch in Sibiu. Pretty. Then during a short jaunt back into the hills through farmers' fields I started to think. First, "I've seen other riders further along the route coming a cropper on tricky stuff, but everything so far has been immense fun, even manageable by me on a bigger bike". Then, "I'm in Sibiu, but where do they run Romaniacs? This is too flat surely."
Immediately, I got my butt handed to me by Jon Florea, well tenderised and served on a platter. Really tough section starting up a river, then steep steep steep loose trails with metre deep run-off gulleys to slide into. I fought my way on, as the GPX track and my increasingly exasperated way-point comments will show, tiring myself just by recce'ing on foot, before eventually throwing in the towel and finding an easier way. Fortunately that was easy enough, only a few hundred metres to retrace, but even then I had to pick my way and double back a couple of times from the terrain. Brilliant on a smaller bike with less luggage, or just more skill, but worth treading carefully if not!
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Beginning of the tricky bit. Run up a river. |
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Arse. Picked the wrong rut. Backed up and got up the right side eventually. |
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My shortcut. Made me feel better about not managing Jon's beastly bit! |
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Just finding somewhere to camp. |
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After Jon's beastly bit, normal service more or less resumed, with sandy runs through villages and past horse-drawn carts. Except for one horrid descent that I half fell, half footed it down. |
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Stopped in a meadow by some abandoned shepherd's crofts. Hoping the sheep opposite and men herding them mean no wolves or bears here. |
Partly it's my lack of skill and experience, and the bags don't help (lofting the front more readily on silly steep stuff), but I also lack the confidence to commit to some of the more explosive bits necessary to bounce up some of this stuff.
To think, I was worrying about reaching Brasov
too soon!
Stove not working. Low gas, probably. Good job I had a big lunch. Cold beans tonight. Smelly. No coffee in the morning!
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NB: Functionality disabled to prevent extracting KML. If you want to follow the route, get the latest data from TransEuroTrail.org |
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